The Lauchope Sundial

I have written previously about the history and the ecology of the site at Lauchope, near Chapelhall.  A site close to my heart, that is currently threatened with development.   Today's post has a slightly different topic.

Sundial at Pitmedden, Aberdeenshire

Its about SUNDIALS!

Scotland is famous for leading the way on many things.  Whisky, raincoats, telephones, television, sundials... yes sundials.

"But we have no sun!!" I hear you say

Queen Mary's Dial, Holyrood, Edinburgh, the work of
John Mylne, Master Mason.
Image courtesy of Dennis Cowan of Sundials Scotland

Scotland is home to some of the most complicated sundials seen anywhere in the world, .....EVER!

Asknish House Sundial

Despite our lack of sun, Scotland has a rich and interesting history associated with ‘Renaissance’ Sundials.  From the 16^th to the early 19^th Century Scottish Stone Masons like John Mylne produced the most mathematically complex and intricate sundials ever seen anywhere in the world.  Many of them not only told the time around the globe but were also concerned with astrological matters. Some with up to 80 faces or dials.  

Glamis Castle Sundial

Up until the 18^th Century, sundials would still be regularly used to tell the time.  Dials would be situated on churches, at the market cross or anywhere where people would regularly gather.  These sundials would generally be simple and functional, dependant on the dial makers’ artistic flair. 

Unicorn Sundial at Inverkeithing Mercat Cross

In the opulent Country Estates of Scotland, gardens would host large free standing sun dials, obelisk sundials and multi-facet sundials.  This is where Master Masonry combined with art, science and mathematics to create a bravura never seen before or since, anywhere in the world.  

Calvinist fashions of the time dictated that garden ornaments should be functional and with a purpose.   This, combined with an enlightened Scotland’s interest in science and mathematics as well as a "renaissance" interest in re-discovering the esoteric knowledge of the Ancients, created a fashion entirely unique to Scotland. 

Lee Castle Sundial, Fry's Trading Cards

Obelisk Sundial at Drummond Castle
Image courtesy of Dennis Cowan, Sundials Scotland

Obelisk Sundial at Cumbernauld House

"There are 2 types of sundial, those that are attached and those that are detached"  

I had no idea, when I started this quest, that I was wading blindly into giant countrywide jigsaw of bits of sundials, erroneously matched up.   Whether they fit, seems not to have mattered on many occasions.....

Craigiehall Sundial, Image Courtesy of Dennis Cowan, Sundials Scotland

I was incredibly excited to learn that Lauchope House had a rather unique and spectacular Scottish Sundial.  It is first seen recorded in 1940 in Stevenson's Sundials of the Six Counties near Glasgow.

The Lauchope sundial had been moved from its original location at Lauchope House to the owners new home, Johnston Hall, less than a mile away.  The dial did not appear to be on its original plinth and there was the stone head of a woman, removed to take the photograph.  It was originally thought the head was not part of the sundial, but theory on this has now changed to believe it was part of the Lauchope Sundial.  The dial went missing at Johnston Hall in the 20th Century and hasn't been seen since.  The site of Johnston Hall is now a Warehouse.


So what did the dial look like?  

Stevenson gives us an excellent description and a picture (shown below) but there are no close up images of the sundial. In the record, he tells us about an impressive facet dial with 26 sides.  Made up of a complicated pattern of squares, Octagons pentagons and hollows.

Lauchope Sundial Image from from Sundials of the Six Counties near Glasgow, 1940

I searched around for similar dials and I found only one which is almost identical in shape, at George Heriot's School in Edinburgh.  It has a verified and recorded provenance.  There was also a similar dial at Waygateshaw near Carluke, (below) which is also lost to history.

Waygateshaw Sundial, Image from Sundials of the Six Counties near Glasgow

What did the plinth look like?

If the ladies head was part of the plinth then we need to look towards the only similar surviving sundial and plinth at Lennoxlove (below) where the dial is precariously perched on top of the ladies head.  It is certainly one of the most impressive sundials, and definitely one of my most favourites.

It has been suggested by Sundial enthusiasts that the Lennoxlove Lady is a composite piece.  The Lady has being attributed to Stone Mason James Gifford.  The dial ,which some have suggested is in the style of Mylne, has Acanthus detail on the dial, and bears a strong resemblance to much of the surviving stonework from Hamilton Palace.

Sundial at Lennoxlove, East Lothian.
 Images courtesy of Dennis Cowan, Sundials Scotland

How old was it?

While it is impossible to say, it does appear to predate the rebuilding of Lauchope in the 1830's which would put it into the timeframe of when the Muirhead family were in residence.

Similar dials appear to have been made late 17th century.  The closest match for the Lauchope dial, George Heriot's dial mentioned previously, was gifted to them in 1679 by Alexander Burton.   The Lennoxlove Sundial is also dated 1679.

Unfortunately, the trail runs cold at this point.  I've been unable to uncover any further details on the Lauchope Sundial.  Perhaps more primary research will uncover additional information.

Interestingly enough, after the Muirhead family sold the lands of Lauchope and moved to Bredisholm they commissioned another spectacular sundial from local stone mason Alexander Fraser.  He was described as a "unsuccesful gardener", but always seemed to have a dial to hand.

Bredisholm dial from Ross & MacGibbons Castellated & Domestic Architecture of Scotland
from the 12th to 18th C, 1839, 

Fraser seems to have been one of the last Scottish dialers.  The Bredisholm dial bears the inscription "We spend our lives as a tale that is told"

Muirhead Family Sundial at Bredisholm near Ballieston.  Late 19th Century
Image from Glasgow University Archives

Lamentably, fashions change and the art of ‘Dialing’ died out in Scotland in the 19^th Century. Stone Masons are no longer trained to make these complicated dials and they are an art, lost to history.

My quest continues.....

If you are interested in helping to save the site at Lauchope for the community, or would just like to find out a bit more about it, please do not hesitate to get in touch with the author, or check "Lost Houses of the Clyde Valley" Facebook page

Finally many thanks to Dennis Cowan from Sundials Scotland who provided essential information regarding the Heriot Sundial and many images above.   I would highly recommend anyone wanting to find out more about Scottish Sundials, visit his fabulously informative website.

Bibliography

MacGibbon & Ross, 1839, The Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland from the 12th to 18th Centuries

WB Stevenson, 1940, Sundials of the Six Counties near Glasgow,  Transactions of the Glasgow Archeological Society, Vol 9, No 4

The legend of the Giant, Bertram De Shotts and William Muirhead of Lauchope

In previous blog posts I've written about the history, ecology and  landscape of the site at Lauchope, near Chapelhall and the Muirhead family, one of the most ancient families in the shire and at one point, the most important family in Glasgow.

This blog post looks at how the lands of Lauchope came to being established.

Lauchope Parkland

Around the 15th Century,  local folklore tells the story of Bertram de Shotts.  A legendary giant that terrorised the area around the Village of Shotts.  Some versions of the tale place it in the time of Robert the Bruce, others King James.  

King James IV, King of Scotland (1473-1513)

Shotts was then, (as it is now)  bleak, cold moorland and was situated on the Main travelling route through the Shire.  Bertram de Shotts was, if legend is to be believed, a Highwayman, a robber, a scoundrel, and a Giant.  He would lie in wait for Tradesmen and travellers, ambush them and steal their wares and livestock.

It was considered such a big problem that King James IV issued a bounty on the head of Bertram de Shotts, offering a "hawks flight" of land to the plucky Scot, brave enough to take on the legendary Giant.

Willielmo de Muirhede (William Muirhead) put a cunning plan into place.  He knew the areas that Bertram de Shotts frequented, He knew that the giant would come to St Kate's Well for water so he placed a large cart full of heather beside the well, hid himself under the heather and waited.

St Kate's Well - Image Tour Scotland

Sure enough eventually the giant Bertram de Shotts came past and peered curiously at the cart of heather.  After a while he went to the well to sup.  Muirhead leapt out of the cart and mounted his attack.

St Kate's Well, Kirk O' Shotts - ImageTour Scotland

First he cut the giant's hamstrings, to debilitate him, before cutting off the giants laughing head and carrying it to King James IV to receive his prize which was the "hawks flight" of land at Lauchope.

"Hawk's Flight" of Land at Lauchope, shown inside
boundary on Bleau's Atlas 1654

This Scots poem by Robert Dangster 1922, recounts the tale which is also mentioned in The Laird of Muirhead from Walter Scott's Minstrelry of the Scottish Borders. (see previous blog post)

Now her is a tale o’ the bold Bartram Shotts

Wha robbit the Lairds o’ their sheep and their stotts

Wha rived frae the rich a’ the gear they could spare

To feed, claithe and gledden, the needy and puir

He first saw the light in the year thirteen ten

Awa mang the hills in a wild lanrick glen

Wi’ natures’ ain music the soun in his ears

To lull him to sleep in his tenderest years

Bread weel tae the chase we the arrow and spear

Nane bolder when huntin the wild boar and deer

He kent every haunt whaur they drank frae the rills

That cannily wimpled amang the Shotts hills

Although ca’d a robber he lookit weel faurt

As shy as a lassock but no easy scaurt

He stood in his shoon mair six feet and ten

And great was the pith o’ this wall o’ big men

The lassies a’ looed him when inbye at hame

And hearts dunted sair when they spake o’ his fame

But oot on the mainland or spielen a hill

The creatures were frichted he’d dae them some ill

Had they but a kent. a’ their fash was in vain

For deil hae’t a value was Bartram he tae’n

At maist, he’d hae stou’n frae their mou’s a bit kiss

A thing he thocht muck o’ an’ they ne’er could miss

Then Robbie the King pit a price on his head

Tae be played tae wha’d bring him in leevin or deid

The price was a hawksflight o’guid lanrick land

Tae be gifted tae them frae King Robbie’s hand

Ae day to the east o’ the bonny lade knowe

The bridle path there, was the scene o’ a row

For Bartram met in wi’ the Laird o’ Muirheid

Took frae him his siller and left him for deid

But Muirhead was made o’ that gude solid stuff

The mair ye lay on tilt, the mair it grows tough

So shakin his neive at Bartram the foe

He swore by St. Katie he’d yet lay him low

The laird he was canny and laid his plans weel

For Bartram he kent was a desperate deil

So kennin that Bartram came o’er by the hirst

Tae drink at the burnie, and slochen his thirst

The laird coupit heather, whaur heather ne’er grew

At a part o’ the glen whaur the burnie ran thro’

Neist day there cam Bartram as aye was his wont

Tae tak his cool draught at the clear rinnin font

He saw the strange birn, but thocht withoot fear

T’was some huntin chiels thicket, tae hide frae the deer

He stood for a moment, sae prood o’ his strength

Then stoopit fu’ laigh, till he steekit his length

He took his cool draught frae the burn rinnin clear

And thocht na o’ danger was near

For oot frae the heather whar he hid lain low

Sprang Muirheid the crafty and dealt him a blow

Fu’ thrice wi his braidsword, he struck micht and main

Till baith Bertrams legs were maist severed in twain

Ae deep throated groan Bertram gaed in despair

For weel kent the lad, that he ne’er could walk mair

Then throwin his body, till hauf turned roon

He lookit we scorn at his foe up and doon

“Man Muirhead” quo he “yer braidsword is keen”

Tis sharper than mine, tho a doot no sae clean

For never was mine we sic treachery drawn

It has aye faced a foe wi a blade in his haun

I look for no mercy for nane can I trace

Then saying this Bertram lauched up in his face

This arrogant speech played the deil we the laird

He swore by St. Katie and pu’d at his beard

“Lauch up in the face o’ a Muirheid” quo he

Tis the last look and lauch up ye ever will gie

Then roon swung his braidsword, wi lichtnin like speed

Clean thro Bertram’s neck bane, and aff rowed his heid

Twas thus that a hawksflicht o’ guid lanrick lan

Came gifted tae Muirheid frae King Robbie’s haun

The laird ca’d it laudhope, a sign o’ his grace

For brave was the loon, that lauched up in his face

And Bertram De Shotts has for lang been the name

O’ the place in braid lanrick that gaed him sic fame

Robert Dangster (1922)

Most traditional versions of the Tale paint Bertram de Shotts as an all round bad egg, a savage, a ne'er do well, however I enjoy Dangster's poem as it frames him as a bit of a Robin Hood character, robbing from the rich to pay the poor, a gentle giant, a friend and protector of the ordinary people.  Perhaps it was just the landed gentry he was troubling.....

The ancient St Kate's or St Katherine's well is located on the site of a Natural Spring near Kirk O' Shotts, which is a James Gillespie Graham Kirk, a familiar sight for anyone who regularly travels on the M8 Motorway from Glasgow to Edinburgh.  The water in the well is said to be exceptionally pure and is known locally as "Giant's Water."

Kirk O' Shotts - Image Jack Byers

Interestingly enough, fishkeepers all over Scotland travel to Kirk O' Shotts to collect "Giant's Water" for their fish and anecdotal evidence shows that species of fish that do not breed successfully in captivity can be encouraged to breed in "Giant's Water".

St Kate's Well, recent image

While we cannot know if the Legend of the Giant is true, in the late 20th century, the tallest man in Scotland,  a real gentle giant, could be found living only a few miles from Shotts, so just maybe, as with a lot of folklore, there's more than a grain of truth to this tale.

If you are interested in helping to save the site at Lauchope from Development, which is sadly imminent, or just want to learn more about it, please contact the author, or Lost Houses of The Clyde Valley, on Facebook.

Lauchope, Chapelhall

The Insurance Policy

The Site of Lauchope House & Tower, near Chapelhall

Ive written lots in previous blogposts about Lauchope House and Tower, a local site I am trying to save from Development for the Community.

Its fascinating history from King James IV to Mary Queen of Scots, the Bishop of Glasgow to the legend of the Giant Bertram of Shotts and the link between ancient oak trees on site at Lauchope and the City of Glasgow Armorial Crest.

Interesting foundations at Lauchope

Sadly, the site at Lauchope along with the ancient Muirhead oaks, is threatened with imminent destruction and development.  The lands of Lauchope, established in a charter in the 14th Century, once Family Home to the Most Powerful Family in Glasgow, are set to become a warehouse.
.

Deer at Lauchope

Of all the losses that will occur at Lauchope, should the Development go ahead, the removal of the oaks will have the greatest impact on  local wildlife (oak trees support more wildlife than any other native tree) Historians, Ecologists, Twitchers, Horticulturalists and Botanists, keen to investigate the trees and establish their ecological and historical importance.  ALL of the Local Community, forced to gaze onto a "Lego" Warehouse, where there was once ancient woodland, not to mention the loss of diversity of wildlife for people to connect with.

Acorns at Lauchope

Let's be honest here, the odds of  stopping any development are slim, despite the historical importance of the site, the bats which roost onsite, the historical and genetic importance of the trees and the amazing team I have helping me. There are ways around these things for Developers.  (But it won't stop us all from trying really, bloody hard.)

Its important though, that we plan for every eventuality.  Having a plan B is in no way admitting failure or defeat.  It is being organised!

Should the very worst occur, I have a small genetic insurance policy to ensure the Muirhead Oaks live on, even if the site at Lauchope doesn't..

Acorns collected from the Muirhead Oaks at Lauchope

Mighty Oaks from Little Acorns Grow

See You In Spring!

In time, if/when they germinate, I plan to offer some of the young oak trees to The Provand's Lordship, Glasgow's Oldest House which was founded by Bishop Muirhead of Lauchope in 1471.   The remainder I will plant out locally, in safe locations to ensure the Muirhead Oaks live on for future generations to enjoy!

One of the Majestic Muirhead Oaks at Lauchope

If you are interested in helping to save this site, and the ancient oaks, for future generations, please get in touch with the author, or check out" Lost Houses of the Clyde Valley"on Facebook.

Lauchope ruins of 19th Century rebuild

The Tree That Never Grew......

City of Glasgow Coat of Arms, Botanic Gardens

There's the tree that never grew,

There's the bird that never flew,

There's the fish that never swam,

There's the bell that never rang.

The City of Glasgow's motto, incorporated into the City's Coat of Arms.  It's everywhere in Glasgow if you look up!  

City of Glasgow Coat of Arms, Royal Concert Hall

This website gives a bit of history to the legend of St Mungo and the symbolic elements contained in the City Coat of Arms, and the poem,  which is all very nice, but i'm interested in............

The Tree That Never Grew

Legend says that St Mungo, The Patron Saint of the City of Glasgow, was in charge of a holy fire in St Serf's Monastery and fell asleep. Some boys who were envious of his favoured position with St Serf put out the fire.  St Mungo broke off some frozen branches from a hazel tree and, by praying over them, caused them to burst into flames and the fire was re-lit.

St Mungo (also known as Kentigern) is said to have preached the sermon containing the words "Lord, let Glasgow Flourish by the preaching of the word." Which was shortened to "Let Glasgow Flourish" still in use today. 

Coat of Arms displayed in Glasgow's Oldest House, The Provand's Lordship,
Built in 1471 by Bishop Andrew Muirhead

In 1866 Lord Lyon, King at Arms gave approval for a Coat of Arms for the City of Glasgow, which incorporated a number of symbolic elements used on official Glasgow seals up until then, all of which were associated with St Mungo.  

Seal from Glasgow 1325, Image courtesy of Mitchell Library

The ancient seal of the Community of Glasgow. 1325 (above) shows the head of St Kentigern with the elements of the legends associated with his life: a bird perched on what is thought to be the hazel branch he caused miraculously to burst into flames; a fish with a ring in its mouth (Mungo recovered the ring given by King Rydderch Hael to Queen Languoreth, in the mouth of a salmon caught in the River Clyde), and the Bell which was rung in his memory.

Seal of Andrew Muirhead, Bishop of Glasgow featuring 3 salmon and 3 acorns

On the 15th Century Glasgow Cathedral Seal, (above), St Kentigern is represented in pontifical robes, with mitre and crosier. The Salmon and ring appear 3 times.  Below him is a shield bearing the arms of the Bishop of Glasgow', (1455-1473) Andrew Muirhead of Lauchope, It is in this seal that we first see the appearance of anything oak related.   The Muirhead of Lauchope Coat of Arms contains 3 acorns, the fruit of the oak tree. (below)

Muirhead of Lauchope Coat of Arms bearing 3 acorns

So, returning to the Glasgow Armorial Crest.  Historians looked at previous seals, like the ones above.  Queen Languoreth's Salmon with the Ring was incorporated, along with Mungo's bird and bell.  The hazel of St Mungo was changed to the Oak.  This may have been a matter of "artistic licence" on the part of the individual tasked with coming up with an Emblem for the the City, or it may have been a direct replication of the acorns that appear on Muirhead's Glasgow Cathedral Seal.  

It doesn't really matter why it was changed, these stories are based on legend, which has evolved throughout the years, so by definition, accuracy has gone out the window a long time ago.  

What is important is that it is now an oak, a symbol of strength, reflecting the historical acorns on the Muirhead Glasgow Cathedral seal.  It all adds to the aura that surrounds Bishop Andrew Muirhead of Lauchope and his contemporaries, sustaining interest into modern times.

But what of the real Oak trees that influenced this change?  For that we have to look at Bishop Muirhead's Family Seat at Lauchope, near Chapelhall, where the remains of the 15th century tower and 19th Century rebuild remain on site. (See previous blog posts for site history)

Lauchope, Chapelhall

Most of the trees in the Designed Landscape are approximately 200 years old, (give or take 50 years each way), however,  there are a number of ancient oaks on site, that would appear to be 300 - 400 years + which puts their planting date to when the Muirhead Family owned the land and gives them historical importance.

Acorns at Lauchope

As my background is in Horticulture and Botany, I want to know is there anything special about these ancient oaks?  How old really are they? Are they super old and haven't really grown much? Are these the children of the trees of legend? 


Are these the real "Trees that Never Grew?"

Sometimes there is more than a hint of truth in folklore and it does no harm to investigate and see what science can tell us.

Ancient Oak at Lauchope

Sadly, it looks like nobody is going to get the chance to answer any of these questions. Lauchope is currently owned by Developers and it is only a matter of time before the site becomes a Warehouse, or similar, .........it is more or less imminent.  

The ruins of the tower house lost forever, the rich biodiversity that the oak trees bring, left homeless, the fascinating genetics of the Muirhead Oaks will be obliterated, All, in the name of progress........

The Tree that Never Grew?

Finally, it doesn't seem right to have written about all of this, without including this lovely wee song from Hue & Cry, Mother Glasgow, which a good friend reminded me about earlier.

If you are interested in helping to save this site and these wonderful ancient oaks for the Local Community, please get in touch with the author, or see Lost Houses of the Clyde Valley on Facebook.  

Many thanks to Gordon Mason for historical information (and patter)