The Insurance Policy

The Site of Lauchope House & Tower, near Chapelhall

Ive written lots in previous blogposts about Lauchope House and Tower, a local site I am trying to save from Development for the Community.

Its fascinating history from King James IV to Mary Queen of Scots, the Bishop of Glasgow to the legend of the Giant Bertram of Shotts and the link between ancient oak trees on site at Lauchope and the City of Glasgow Armorial Crest.

Interesting foundations at Lauchope

Sadly, the site at Lauchope along with the ancient Muirhead oaks, is threatened with imminent destruction and development.  The lands of Lauchope, established in a charter in the 14th Century, once Family Home to the Most Powerful Family in Glasgow, are set to become a warehouse.
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Deer at Lauchope

Of all the losses that will occur at Lauchope, should the Development go ahead, the removal of the oaks will have the greatest impact on  local wildlife (oak trees support more wildlife than any other native tree) Historians, Ecologists, Twitchers, Horticulturalists and Botanists, keen to investigate the trees and establish their ecological and historical importance.  ALL of the Local Community, forced to gaze onto a "Lego" Warehouse, where there was once ancient woodland, not to mention the loss of diversity of wildlife for people to connect with.

Acorns at Lauchope

Let's be honest here, the odds of  stopping any development are slim, despite the historical importance of the site, the bats which roost onsite, the historical and genetic importance of the trees and the amazing team I have helping me. There are ways around these things for Developers.  (But it won't stop us all from trying really, bloody hard.)

Its important though, that we plan for every eventuality.  Having a plan B is in no way admitting failure or defeat.  It is being organised!

Should the very worst occur, I have a small genetic insurance policy to ensure the Muirhead Oaks live on, even if the site at Lauchope doesn't..

Acorns collected from the Muirhead Oaks at Lauchope

Mighty Oaks from Little Acorns Grow

See You In Spring!

In time, if/when they germinate, I plan to offer some of the young oak trees to The Provand's Lordship, Glasgow's Oldest House which was founded by Bishop Muirhead of Lauchope in 1471.   The remainder I will plant out locally, in safe locations to ensure the Muirhead Oaks live on for future generations to enjoy!

One of the Majestic Muirhead Oaks at Lauchope

If you are interested in helping to save this site, and the ancient oaks, for future generations, please get in touch with the author, or check out" Lost Houses of the Clyde Valley"on Facebook.

Lauchope ruins of 19th Century rebuild

The Tree That Never Grew......

City of Glasgow Coat of Arms, Botanic Gardens

There's the tree that never grew,

There's the bird that never flew,

There's the fish that never swam,

There's the bell that never rang.

The City of Glasgow's motto, incorporated into the City's Coat of Arms.  It's everywhere in Glasgow if you look up!  

City of Glasgow Coat of Arms, Royal Concert Hall

This website gives a bit of history to the legend of St Mungo and the symbolic elements contained in the City Coat of Arms, and the poem,  which is all very nice, but i'm interested in............

The Tree That Never Grew

Legend says that St Mungo, The Patron Saint of the City of Glasgow, was in charge of a holy fire in St Serf's Monastery and fell asleep. Some boys who were envious of his favoured position with St Serf put out the fire.  St Mungo broke off some frozen branches from a hazel tree and, by praying over them, caused them to burst into flames and the fire was re-lit.

St Mungo (also known as Kentigern) is said to have preached the sermon containing the words "Lord, let Glasgow Flourish by the preaching of the word." Which was shortened to "Let Glasgow Flourish" still in use today. 

Coat of Arms displayed in Glasgow's Oldest House, The Provand's Lordship,
Built in 1471 by Bishop Andrew Muirhead

In 1866 Lord Lyon, King at Arms gave approval for a Coat of Arms for the City of Glasgow, which incorporated a number of symbolic elements used on official Glasgow seals up until then, all of which were associated with St Mungo.  

Seal from Glasgow 1325, Image courtesy of Mitchell Library

The ancient seal of the Community of Glasgow. 1325 (above) shows the head of St Kentigern with the elements of the legends associated with his life: a bird perched on what is thought to be the hazel branch he caused miraculously to burst into flames; a fish with a ring in its mouth (Mungo recovered the ring given by King Rydderch Hael to Queen Languoreth, in the mouth of a salmon caught in the River Clyde), and the Bell which was rung in his memory.

Seal of Andrew Muirhead, Bishop of Glasgow featuring 3 salmon and 3 acorns

On the 15th Century Glasgow Cathedral Seal, (above), St Kentigern is represented in pontifical robes, with mitre and crosier. The Salmon and ring appear 3 times.  Below him is a shield bearing the arms of the Bishop of Glasgow', (1455-1473) Andrew Muirhead of Lauchope, It is in this seal that we first see the appearance of anything oak related.   The Muirhead of Lauchope Coat of Arms contains 3 acorns, the fruit of the oak tree. (below)

Muirhead of Lauchope Coat of Arms bearing 3 acorns

So, returning to the Glasgow Armorial Crest.  Historians looked at previous seals, like the ones above.  Queen Languoreth's Salmon with the Ring was incorporated, along with Mungo's bird and bell.  The hazel of St Mungo was changed to the Oak.  This may have been a matter of "artistic licence" on the part of the individual tasked with coming up with an Emblem for the the City, or it may have been a direct replication of the acorns that appear on Muirhead's Glasgow Cathedral Seal.  

It doesn't really matter why it was changed, these stories are based on legend, which has evolved throughout the years, so by definition, accuracy has gone out the window a long time ago.  

What is important is that it is now an oak, a symbol of strength, reflecting the historical acorns on the Muirhead Glasgow Cathedral seal.  It all adds to the aura that surrounds Bishop Andrew Muirhead of Lauchope and his contemporaries, sustaining interest into modern times.

But what of the real Oak trees that influenced this change?  For that we have to look at Bishop Muirhead's Family Seat at Lauchope, near Chapelhall, where the remains of the 15th century tower and 19th Century rebuild remain on site. (See previous blog posts for site history)

Lauchope, Chapelhall

Most of the trees in the Designed Landscape are approximately 200 years old, (give or take 50 years each way), however,  there are a number of ancient oaks on site, that would appear to be 300 - 400 years + which puts their planting date to when the Muirhead Family owned the land and gives them historical importance.

Acorns at Lauchope

As my background is in Horticulture and Botany, I want to know is there anything special about these ancient oaks?  How old really are they? Are they super old and haven't really grown much? Are these the children of the trees of legend? 


Are these the real "Trees that Never Grew?"

Sometimes there is more than a hint of truth in folklore and it does no harm to investigate and see what science can tell us.

Ancient Oak at Lauchope

Sadly, it looks like nobody is going to get the chance to answer any of these questions. Lauchope is currently owned by Developers and it is only a matter of time before the site becomes a Warehouse, or similar, .........it is more or less imminent.  

The ruins of the tower house lost forever, the rich biodiversity that the oak trees bring, left homeless, the fascinating genetics of the Muirhead Oaks will be obliterated, All, in the name of progress........

The Tree that Never Grew?

Finally, it doesn't seem right to have written about all of this, without including this lovely wee song from Hue & Cry, Mother Glasgow, which a good friend reminded me about earlier.

If you are interested in helping to save this site and these wonderful ancient oaks for the Local Community, please get in touch with the author, or see Lost Houses of the Clyde Valley on Facebook.  

Many thanks to Gordon Mason for historical information (and patter)

The Muirhead Oaks

Old Oak at Lauchope

Lauchope House and Tower, Chapelhall has a documented history going back to the 15^th Century.  Known for its exceptionally thick walls, Lauchope was home to the Muirhead Family until it was destroyed by English Dragoons in 1570 in retaliation for James Muirhead aiding the escape of James Hamilton of Bothwellhaugh, following the assassination of the Regent Moray. (below)

The Regent Moray 

The Muirheads were still in possession of the land until the Roberton family commenced build of a New Mansion in 1839.

Lauchope House, how it looked in the mid 19th Century

As my back ground is in horticulture, when I visit a site for the first time I tend to look for what plants are growing in a particular area to give me an idea of the habitat I am dealing with.  This will give me an idea of what other plants I can expect to see growing alongside it.

One of the first trees I always try and seek out when I visit a new site is Oak.  Oak trees are long lived and can give you an idea of how old your particular patch of woodland is.  They also support a greater range of diversity of species than any other native tree. 

Lauchope Oaks

Many insects, invertebrates, birds, raptors, owls, bats, epiphytic plants, mosses ferns and lichens to name but a few, make their homes in oak trees.

Oak trees provide excellent habitats for  wildlife

When you visit a site regularly you notice the change in seasons and different plants shine at different times of the year. 

Little jewels

I’ve been walking my dog Daisy at Lauchope for a few years now.  The woodland is dominated by Ash trees and Beech which has self-sown from previous hedge boundaries which have been allowed to grow out.

My long suffering "assistant" 

The grand avenue is a mixture of Lime, Beech and Sycamore.  There are also 3 magnificent Scots Pine specimens and birch in boggier areas of the site.

Grand Avenue in Winter

Shrubs include Hawthorn and Blackthorn which are a picture in Spring when teamed with oodles of Cow parsley and in Autumn you get the wonderful berries too.

Most of the mature trees on site would appear to be between 150 and 200 years old which fits in with the redevelopment of the site which started in 1839.  There are however a few trees which would appear to predate this, these I find particularly interesting. 

Old Oak at Lauchope

Some of the oak trees would appear to be 400+ years old, several of them exhibiting signs of being potential roosting sites for bats.  I have arranged for the “Batman” to visit with his “big  ladder” and confirm if they are present. *Claps hands, very excited!!*

Who lives in a house like this??

Buzzards were nesting in one of the old oaks in 2015 but no nests this year, which may in part be down to M8 extension works at the base of their tree.   Hopefully the birds of prey will return when the work is complete.

Buzzards have nested here for years, until this year...

 The habitat is not ideal for oaks, the soil is acidic and over-wet, this leads me to think they are perhaps older than they appear on first glance, especially when you see all the gnarls, crevices, lumps and bumps on the trees.  When measuring the girth to determine the age it is important to remember growing conditions are less than ideal compared to say,  a site in the south of England.

The mature oak trees have been deliberately planted in specific locations and are part of the designed landscape, marking out various boundaries and vistas.  They are not self-seeders.

One of the younger Lauchope Oaks

Given that some of the oak trees look to be over 400 years old, this leads me to believe they may have been planted by the Muirhead Family who owned the land at the time, perhaps in a nod to the Muirhead of Lauchope Coat of Arms which features 3 acorns, the fruit of the oak tree.

Muirhead of Lauchope Coat of Arms

It would also be interesting to discover whether they are "children" of the Cadzow Oaks. given the Muirhead close family ties with the Hamiltons.  Maybe one day when iphones can test genetics.........

Old oak at Lauchope

In other news a solid timber fence has been erected between Lauchope and the M8, whether this signals an end to development works, or it has been erected to hide what is going on behind it, only time will tell.

My ultimate aim is to save the site at Lauchope for the Community, it would make a fantastic ecology, nature, historical education site.  Firstly, the site needs to be recorded and photographed for RHMS, then I need to open a dialogue with the right person at the Council (Whoever that may be).  This project will however, only succeed with the support of the Community.  This is paramount.

If you are interested in learning more about the site or would like to assist in saving it for the community, please do not hesitate to get in touch with the author, or you can check out “Lost Houses of the Clyde Valley” on Facebook.

“Mighty Oaks from little Acorns grow” Unknown

The Laird of Muirhead

Lauchope House, Chapelhall
Image Courtesy of Paul Wilkinson

Following on from my last post about Lauchope House and Tower in Chapelhall, this ballad tells the story of the death of one of the previous occupants.  

Slain on the battlefield at Flodden,  John Muirhead of Lauchop was Bodyguard to King James IV who was also fatally injured that day.

Lauchope House, Chapelhall
Image Courtesy of Paul Wilkinson

The Ballad is a fragment from Mr. Herd's MS., communicated to him by J. Grossett Muirhead, Esq. of Bredisholm, near Glasgow; who stated that he extracted it, as relating to his own family, from the complete song, in which twenty or thirty gentlemen were mentioned, contained in a large collection, belonging to Mr. Alexander Monro, merchant in Lisbon, but supposed now to be lost. 

Lauchope House, Chapelhall
Image Courtesy of Paul Wilkinson

This ballad is on display at The Provand's Lordship of Glasgow, which is Glasgow's oldest House,  built in 1471 by Bishop Andrew Muirhead, and is also published in Walter Scott’s “Minstrelry of the Scottish Borders”

Lauchope House, Chapelhall
Image Courtesy of Paul Wilkinson

The Laird Of Muirhead

Afore the King in order stude,

The stout laird of Muirhead,

Wi' that same twa-hand muckle sword 

That Bartram fell'd stark dead. 

 He sware he wadna lose his right 

To fight in ilka field; 

Nor budge him from his liege's sight, 

Till his last gasp should yield.

Twa hunder mair of his ain name, 

Frae Torwood and the Clyde, 

Sware they would never gang to hame, 

But a' die by his syde.

And wondrous weel they kept their troth;

This sturdy royal band

Rush'd down the brae wi' sic a pith, 

That nane could them withstand. 

Mony a bloody blow they dealt,

The like was never seen;

And, hadna that braw leader fall'n, 

They ne'er had slain the king.

Lauchope House, Chapelhall, Image Courtesy of Paul Wilkinson

For more information on Lauchope House please contact the author or check "Lost Houses of the Clyde Valley" on Facebook, which includes information on many of Lanarkshire's Historical Sites.

Lauchope House and Tower

Spooky Remnants of Lauchope House

I walk my dog here most days and had no idea of its Historical Importance until I started researching Chatelherault and Hamilton Palace for a Garden History Project..... And yes it is as spooky as it looks. *Clears throat*

A once Grand Avenue

Take yourself back to 1570, Mary Queen of Scots has just been forced to abdicate her throne for the alleged Murder of  her (rather rubbish) husband, Lord Darnley.  You may think I am being a tad flippant about the killing of her significant other here, but remember this was at a time when Henry VIII decapitated just about everyone he snogged so, there's a distinct whiff of one rule for him, another rule for her!

I would also add that many history scholars believe she was set up, so I have no beef with "The Unfortunate Mary." (below)

Mary Stuart Queen - Unknown

Her "illegitimate half brother" (these days he would be marched straight to Jeremy Kyle for a DNA Test) seized control of Scotland, styling himself as The Regent Murray (Moray.)  I think its fair to say the Regent Moray (pictured below) was no friend of Scotland, many Battles ensued as Scotland fought to free herself from his damaging influence.  The Regent Moray was shot In Linlithgow on the 23rd January and died from his injuries.

James Stuart, Regent Moray - Unknown

At this point I will introduce Cadzow Castle and Walter Scott (bear with me i'm setting the scene)

"The ruins of Cadyow or Cadzow Castle, the ancient baronial residence of the family of Hamilton are situated on the precipitous banks of the river Evan (Avon).  It was dismantled, in the conclusion of the Civil Wars, during the reign of the unfortunate Mary, to whose cause the House of Hamilton devoted themselves, with generous zeal, which occasioned their temporary obscurity and very nearly,  their total ruin."

In detailing the death of the Regent Murray

"Whose cheek is pale, whose eyeballs glare,

As one some vision'd sight that saw,

Whose hands are bloody, loose his hair?

T'is he, T'is he, T'is Bothwellhaugh..

Then speed thee noble Chatelherault! 

Spread to the wind thy banner'd tree! 

Each warrior bend his Clydesdale bow, 

Murray is fall'n and Scotland free" 

Walter Scott, The  Ballad of Cadzow Castle

Hamilton of Bothwellahugh - by G Cattermole

 Following James Hamilton of Bothwellhaugh's assassination of the Regent Moray, he spent his last night in Scotland at Lauchope, before escaping to France under the patronage of the family of Guise.

Lauchope and all the Family Papers were burned in retaliation.  James Muirhead of Lauchope was James Hamilton's brother in law, and was subsequently imprisoned in Edinburgh Castle for his part in Bothwellhaugh's escape.

Pont's sketch of the Area 1596

Pont's sketch of the area in 1596 (shown above) indicates 5 stories by the window count. Showing that the tower was of a very significant size. (Image and information courtesy of Gordon Mason)

Bleau's Atlas showing Lauchope in 1654

Bleau's Atlas (above) shows the area of Lauchope in 1654.  The building is highlighted in Bold Red to show its importance. (Image and information courtesy of Gordon Mason)

The atmosphere here is incredible, proper spooky, nature has reclaimed everything.  You can still see the outline of the old house and Tower. Various walls still stand, Other parts are demolished, the stones lie where they fell.   A dark green carpet of ivy covers everything.  Spring bulbs serve as reminder that it was once a family home.  Large imposing beech trees form what was once the Grand Avenue.  The stones that litter the ground from the old tower are enormous, you'd need to be Geoff Capes to even think of moving them.

I was sad to learn that the site is not protected, and from what i ascertain, as it is listed as demolished there is nothing to protect?  See Canmore list schedule https://canmore.org.uk/site/45791/lauchope-house

The M8 slip roads are coming perilously close and I worry about the future of this site.  Contractors have already been in and removed trees. (above)

Its not been particularly easy to find information on the site.  Scottish Lowland history is woefully recorded.   (The winners get to write the history books) and everyday we are losing too many of our sites of historical importance in Lanarkshire.  (See Lost Houses of the Clyde Valley facebook page for details)

  

Its important to preserve and tell the stories of what we have left.

What about giving this place a purpose, make it safe, secure the site, get it scheduled as an ancient historical monument, get some treework done, put some historical interpretation up, open this fascinating, atmospheric, historical space up to the public.  Get it added to the Walter Scott Trail.  Make it a space the community can have pride in.

 It is teaming with wildlife, bats, birds, bees, terrestrial orchids, large eagley type bird of prey (I'm no twitcher) It would make valuable community wildlife and history education space that Chapelhall so desperately needs.

This entry from The Castles of Glasgow and The Clyde by Gordon Mason, second edition, 2013, Written, Published and Printed In Scotland, gives record of some of the fascinating history of the site

 LAUCHOPE HOUSE
North Lanarkshire
Ruin or site, OS64 NS781617
3.5 miles north east of Motherwell, off minor roads, north of A8 and south of B799, south of Chapelhall and south east of Lauchope Mains.
Site of a strong tower house of the Muirheads which was later incorporated into a mansion, now demolished. Lauchope appears on Pont’s manuscript map of c1596 as a particularly large and important tower house of two blocks within a courtyard and an enclosed park. The tower is said to have had very thick walls.
The name ‘Chappel’ is dominant on Bleau’s Atlas Novus of 1654, but the name ‘Lauchob’ also appears. The chapel in question was ancient and dedicated to St Larsach. It was ruined by the 18th century but had become the burial place of the family. Although in modern times this area is included within Monklands, it was part of the vast parish and barony of Bothwell, though became part of Bertram Shotts when the parish was divided just after the Reformation.
In the reign of David II, Thomas de Moravia granted a charter of Over and Nether Lauchope to William Balyston. By the end of the 14th century the Muirheads were in possession. In 1393 a William Muirhead was knighted by Robert III and as Sir William Muirhead of Lauchope appeared as a charter witness in 1401.
This first Muirhead of Lauchope was renowned as a hero nation-wide, if the legend of the notorious robber baron Bertram of Shotts is to be believed. Bertram was a giant amongst men, deemed capable of fighting a dozen men at once, and winning! The crown was so concerned by his piratical antics that they offered a substantial reward for his removal. Muirhead was their man. Dumping a cartload of heather close by a well that the giant was known to use, Muirhead lay in wait for his victim. Sure enough Bertram came to drink, and after examining the curious pile, he bent over to sup from the well. Muirhead emerged from below the heather and struck the giant a fatal blow to the head with his sword. The story continues that Robert II was so grateful that Muirhead was granted the Lauchope lands as a result. This same hero supposedly died at Flodden, 140 years later. The existence of a Bertram of Shotts has never been shown in fact, though the legend warranted a mention in Sir Walter Scott’s epic ‘The Ballad of the Battle of Flodden Field’. Other versions of the story place events in the reign of James IV.
There is another legend that John Muirhead, a younger son of Muirhead of Lauchope, became known as Stark after saving James III from an attack by a wild bull. He is said to have been granted lands and become the progenitor of the Starks of Auchinvole. James Muirhead of Lauchope is said to have died at The Battle of Flodden in 1513 whilst serving in the bodyguard of James IV.
The tower gave refuge to Hamilton of Bothwellhaugh in 1570, after his assassination of the Regent Moray in Linlithgow. Lauchope was burned by English dragoons in response and the family papers destroyed. James Muirhead of Lauchope was Hamilton’s brother-in-law and was imprisoned in Edinburgh Castle in the aftermath. In 1679 another James Muirhead and his brother John fought at the Battle of Bothwell Bridge for the Covenanters. Captured and tried, they refused to pledge allegiance to Charles II and were banished to the English colonies in America in 1685.
There is mention of a long running feud between the Muirheads of Lauchope and the Clelands of that Ilk. The Muirheads died out in 1738 and the estate passed to a cadet branch, the Muirheads of Bredisholm. The property came into the possession of a branch of the Robertons of Earnock before 1816 and they are credited with building the mansion in 1839. This family were still in possession when the house was demolished in 1956.

Lauchope House in the 19th Century

Above image provided by Chrstine Wallace, courtesy of https://robertongenealogy.wordpress.com/2010/06/06/lauchope-house/

Many thanks to Members of the Lost Houses of the Clyde Valley group, without whom I could not have pulled this information together